in gold ?
encoder schaut 12 mm raus
2 mm spiel
Welle 6 mm dick
der ist 14,5 mm hoch, schraubbar
oder
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How much more work would be needed to get under the pads for cleaning?
really easy⊠you just need the right size Torx screwdriver (its pretty small) T6.
take off knob caps, undo 9 screws on top plate, then lift off faceplate.
the pads are one piece and just lifts straight off !
so no ribbon cables or anything to worry about for disassembly.
edit: one word of caution⊠only use the right screwdriver headâŠ
small Torx screwheads like these are really easy to damage if try to âwing itâ with what you have to hand⊠and then youâll have a hell of a time removing them.
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YES! Easy peasy. Thank you.
You needed to clean under the pads already?
On other devices. If pads gather too much dust, they get a bit finnicky and some devices are not designed to be maintained (Circuit).
I see, just like me you preemptively worry about things 
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It determines whether I get a decksaver or not. In this case, I want to be able to play as fast as possible, so no decksaver.
My main problem is usually that I wear the pads themselves out, which either requires recoating the underside of them with conductive paint (which works sometimes, but never long term) or replacing the pads.
This is why Iâm extremely pleased with the actual switches under the non-matrix pads of the Hapax. This feels like itâs going to last me a long time.
oh wait they are actual switches?!?!
the âclickyâ ones have switches underneath, I believe.
Ok, Iâm having the knob issue. I posted about it here before remembering this thread Step mode observations and questions - #19 by cowboy
I will try to add nuts over the faceplate and see if that helps, even though, intuitively, it feels like that shouldnât work, because if anything, that would make the knobs less likely to be able to pushed down far enough to trigger the click.
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I can confirm that adding nuts over the top of the faceplate doesnât solve the encoder click issue. I see the exact same behavior as before. Iâm going to try adding some kind of spacer inside each knob at the top of the encoder shaft to see if that helps.
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I was able to fix the click issues with a few layers of electrical tape just on the very end of the encoder shafts. No nuts needed.
interesting, as it most certainly fixed it on my end. I did a 6 hour session last night with no encoder mis-clicks after adding the nuts on top.
You may have tightened them more than cowboy thereby raising the top of the pots a bit more above the faceplate then he did 
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If adding a nut works for you, thatâs fantastic! However, I wasnât able to replicate your success here.
My theory about whatâs happening is that when the knob is seated at its maximum depth, the 4 internal support structures that grip the encoder shaft which extend to the bottom are now close enough to the threaded metal barrel such that when the knob is pushed to click, the travel is now constrained just enough to prevent the switch from making an electrical connection, even though the part of the switch that gives that physical âclickâ feedback has engaged.
Adding some kind of spacer to the end of the shaft, like Iâve done here with a few layers of electrical tape cut to size, prevents the knob from seating quite as far down, which seems to give just enough extra room between those support structures and the threaded metal barrel to allow the click to work reliably. However, this is not a long term solution, because the tape may compress or otherwise deteriorate. A better solution would be a hard plastic or metal spacer, or different knobs.
Either way, Iâm concerned that adding a nut over the top of the faceplate doesnât address the real issue, and is somehow solving the problem indirectly, by creating extra stress on the encoders or PCBs to which theyâre mounted, which could lead to longer term issues.
But thatâs just my $0.02!
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I see, thanks for the explanation cowboy. I just got my hapax in the mail today but wont have a chance to turn it on until later tonight. I thought the problem might have been the knobs bottoming out on the faceplate, but after getting the actual unit in my hands this is obviously not the case, I think you are correct.
Has anyone communicate with Squarp about this encoder/knob problem? What do they say if so? Will next batch have this problem too?